I preface every review with the same disclosure. I am not a professional. I do not shoot test charts. I do not try every lens with every camera. All opinions are my own, and are only based upon my own experiences with the gear. I haven’t had a ton of gear, or all of the expensive gear. I won’t list every specification or test for every specification. My review is not meant for professionals – if you are a professional, you shouldn’t need a review from an amateur. The information below is simply my own observations while doing normal photography, and is for other car enthusiasts and amateurs like myself.
I bought a pair of these wireless flash transmitters to use with my FlashPoint Rovelight strobe. While the Yongnuo YN-622N’s work great for short distances, and provide HSS for the Rovelight, they just didn’t have the range that I really wanted, so I did some research and found that the Aputure TrigMaster Plus II flash triggers fit my long range needs.
When you buy a pair of them, they come in a handy little padded case. It has two compartments. The first compartment is divided for storage of the two transceivers. The second is for storing batteries, sync cables, etc.
The transceivers have an adjustable antenna. I have not needed to flip it up for it to work, but I suspect the range might be increased with it up.
On the front of the transceiver, their is a single pin flash hotshoe mount. I’ve never had to use it, but it seems like it would be useful if you mounted your manual flash on that hotshoe, and then screwed the 1/4 mount to a lightstand.
The group 1-D buttons are located on the front, surrounding the Channel/Release button. It supports 6 channels on 4 groups. It’s not a lot, but plenty for all of my situations.
Above them is the camera trigger button, and mode lights.
On the side of the transceiver is a sync cable output jack, a camera/pc output jack, and a test flash button that doubles as a battery level check button. On the other side, there are two switches. The first is to turn it on, off, or set it to “Super”. The second is to set it either in transceiver mode (both RX and TX), or receiving only (RX). If it is on a strobe, set it to RX.
In the back of the transceiver, you can access the battery compartment. It holds two AA batteries. There is also a 1/4 mount for putting it in a lightstand, tripod, etc.
On the bottom of the transceiver, their is a standard flash mount with a screw type lock.
Range is otherworldly. I haven’t found a situation where I got out of their range, which is supposedly 500m. I’ve never had to put myself 500m away from my strobe, so I haven’t had any issues. Even if I did, the Aputures have a function where you can extend the range by using it’s “Super” mode with a third flash trigger acting as a relay. That function lets you light as far as 1km away from your camera.
The most important thing is that these trigger are rock solid in reliably firing. I have never had the strobe fail to fire when using the Aputure triggers. They simply work every time, at every distance that I have tried.
These sell for less than $100/pr shipped. The cheapest PWs are much more expensive.
Lack of HSS
The Aputure’s do not have High Speed Sync, and have a limit of 1/350 maximum. With me shooting on the D600, I am limited to its 1/200 sync speed. I end up using ND filters if I want to use the strobe outside on a sunny day, or I have to switch over to my Yongnuo triggers.
Lack of TTL
Without TTL, you do have to calculate for your flash power needs, but if you are not in a rushed situation, then it is quite easy to use manual flash power, and get consistent results.
As long as I am shooting at 1/200 or lower, and do not need TTL, these are still my trigger of choice. When I want TTL or HSS, then I immediately swap over to my YN-622Ns.
In using them, I found that there were a couple of things really needed to make them quick and easy to use.
The first is velcro. With my Rovelight, there was no way to mount them or tie the receiving one (RX) to the strobe itself. My solution was to simply put a piece of velcron on the back of the receiving trigger and on the strobe. It allows me to remove it quickly.
The second is a sync cable. In order to have it trigger the strobe, the simple solution was to use a sync cable and plug it in. Since these cables seem to fail for some people from what I have read online, I keep a couple of extras with me.
As a camera trigger, you will need the release cable that matches your camera. I already had one from my Pixel camera trigger. I tested it, and it works well, but I still prefer my Pixel trigger for triggering just the camera.
Now, if I wanted to remotely trigger the camera AND a strobe at the same time, I think that the Aputure would be an excellent choice; however, that takes 3 Aputure flash trigger units, and I only have 2. I plan to get a third one for more flexibility in using my strobe and camera when I need more room between the camera and subject. The last time, I found myself walking back and forth between my camera, strobe, and subject way too much.
Overall, I highly recommend these triggers for manual flash work that does not need HSS.